von Jacques Pinard Brown (Copyright)

Introduction:

The farm lies in a long and deep valley in the bushveld of the Eastern Transvaal. It is only one of the many farms in the valley, so the story is more about the valley itself, and the giant mountain head that towers above the valley and all the other mountains around it.

The farm belonged to my grandparents on my mother’s side of the family, and was an investment, rather than a farming enterprise. As a result of this the area is still quite unspoilt, and nowadays form part of a protected area. There are buck of various species, from small to large. There is even leopards in the valley, that are currently being researched by nature conservation scientist.

It is as beautiful a valley as any on the fair continent of Africa.

The Valley.

The valley is probably about fifty kilometers long, and I am really only familiar with the eastern side of it, on which the farm lies.

It is a beautiful bushveld valley of towering mountains with pre-historically formed crevices. The crevices and crags were formed when there was still a lot of water falling down over them from the higher ground above the valley. Now all that remained of the mighty rivers that must have flowed here eons ago, is a small mountain stream.

Still, at places the stream flows strongly and there are many beautiful waterfalls in the valley, from which it gets its name; the Waterfall river pass. There are numerous small waterfalls in the smaller valleys that are formed on the side of the larger canyon, and I know of at least one large one, which sports a large pool at the bottom.

The waterfall on the neighboring farm is small, but very beautiful. It is high up on a steep climb between a narrow little gorge with high and steep sides, here there are always a lot of baboons that maraud the kranses. They avoid humans and are an aggressive bunch, protective of their own kind and their territory.

Here high up in the gorge in their living area, there is a beautiful small waterfall, not easily accessible. It consists of a high stream of powerful water, not very large, that comes directly from the highland plato above it. It empties into a small but deep basin ideal for bathing under the shower of the waterfall. From here the water runs down into another larger pool nearby, and from here downstream among the rocks and boulders, forming numerous other pools and small falls, in its path down to the bottom of the gorge. It is a wondrous place with huge boulders and a lot of ferns growing in this primeval world. This little gorge with its beautiful little waterfall, is totally secluded and private and an ideal place to get away from it all. I have spent much time here, alone or in the company of one or two people. The closest thing to heaven I have seen in this world.

But other people must have had similar feelings as my own long, long ago, for the valley has much remains of circular constructions of stone made by some ancient people. These types of ruins are found all over the eastern Transvaal, and are supposedly connected with the mysterious lost culture of Zimbabwe. There are quite a few scattered across the valley and to speculate their purpose seems futile, one can do little more than appreciate the craftsmanship that went into building them so long ago, under the hot African sun, in this warm and glorious valley. Their true purpose remains a mystery, as do the origins of their builders.

The valley is a lovely and intriguing place. The tall light green and yellow African grass cover the valley, and the thorn trees, bushes and other indigenous plants cover the area, so that it becomes truly bush at places. The whole valley is covered with thousands of aloes. When they bloom they have lovely orange and red flowers. They are an integral part of the area. The terrain is rocky and roughed. It is from this abundance of rock that the structures of the ruins of the ancients had been built.

Butterflies, locusts and innumerable other insects buzz around in the veldt wherever you go. Birds of all description is to be found, such as all the well known Southern African species, as well as hawks that fly and hunt high up in the air near the summits of the kranses.

But the lord of the air here is undoubtedly the huge black eagle. They fly high up in the valley, and are usually in the vicinity of the large mountain head that towers over it. Here they drift effortlessly on the strong wind currents, seeking out their prey in the valley below.

The Mountain.

The majestic peak that towers over the valley is in the shape of a gigantic outcrop referred to as the head of the mountain.

It takes one a whole day of hard climbing up the steep and rocky slope through the African bush and veldt, to get there and back to the farmhouse. One can do this in about half this time if one is in prime physical condition, and you make it a rush journey. However, you would usually make a day outing of it, arriving at the top of the head at about noon, eating lunch there and spending some time appreciating the scenery. Then after spending about an hour on the top of the mountain, one must venture down the steep incline back down again.

The view from the top is spectacular as one has a view of the whole valley. It is beautiful and majestic with the river running like a blue ribbon through it. You can see the top of the plato on the other side of the valley. It has fairly large patches of water that empties into the waterfalls and river below. Here on the highlands the veldt is lush and green, if the rainfalls have been good, and there is water enough.

The valley stretches out before your eyes in both directions in its entire splendor, and if you are lucky you can get a close up glimpse of a black eagle, this is after all their mountain, and their kranses. If you sit on a ledge overlooking the valley you are certain to see many hawks swooping in sky close to the kranses, looking for prey like small lizards and rodents. If you walk around a bit, you’ll find feathers of the black eagle, for it roosts up here in the kranses.

Freedom.

The most complete feeling of freedom and unity with nature that I have ever experienced, has been on the top of this mountain.

I have been up here a number of times in my life, sitting in the silence and the wind marveling at the beauty of the valley and its creatures.

But the local cow herders venture up these slopes everyday after stray cattle, and if anyone truly lives in harmony with this beautiful valley, and if anyone has insight into its mysteries, it must be them.

Still, I have been up there, and I have seen the glory of nature in a deep rich valley, under a clear blue sky, and that is enough for me.